Iceland

When to go

Summer (June–August) gives you 20+ hours of daylight, every road open, and the Highlands accessible — but also the crowds and the highest prices. The shoulder months (May, September) are the value pick. Winter is for the northern lights and empty landscapes, with the trade-off of short days, closed mountain roads and real weather.

Driving the Ring Road

Route 1 loops the whole island in roughly 1,300 km. Seven to ten days lets you do it without rushing; five is a sprint. Anti-clockwise from Keflavík puts the busy south coast first and the quiet east and north later. A 2WD is fine for the Ring Road itself in summer; you need a 4WD for any F-road into the interior, and river crossings are not covered by insurance. Check road.is and vedur.is every morning — conditions change fast.

The aurora

You need three things: darkness (September to March), a clear sky, and solar activity. Get away from Reykjavík's light, give it until at least 22:00, and be patient — a quiet night can flare without warning. The aurora forecast on vedur.is shows cloud cover and activity together.

Practicalities

Iceland is expensive; a rental car with two people sharing fuel and cooking some meals is the biggest saving. Tap water is among the best in the world — never buy it bottled. Swimming pools and hot springs are a national institution; shower thoroughly without a swimsuit first, it's non-negotiable. Fill the tank whenever you're below half on the east coast.